Shanghai

Shanghai Surprise…

It's a warm rainy day in China, I write in my travel journal from a little coffee shop watching this foreign world scoot by. I now realize, I have little understanding of China. In Hanoi they call this misty precipitation, "rain dust", I like that. This rain dust is more refreshing then it is obtrusive. It is a good atmosphere to put introspectively my thoughts about my moods and emotions of the last few days, while Bryan Adams supplies background vocals, I do miss Canada.

Yesterday I didn't leave Jeff's apartment in Xiamen, a rare bout of disillusionment with traveling. I had planned to grab the blades and explore a far off section of this interesting Chinese city. All day the blades sat there without me leaving the confines of my computer screen: MSN messenger, Photoshop, word, etc. I just wanted to feel at home. I wondered if after only 65 days of travel I had lost my edge. No, that's not it. I surmise, this disillusionment is a culmination of cultural clash: I just needed to regroup and refortify. Thus, my hiatus in Jeff's burrow and the kind words delivered by messenger of those I care about a million miles away were my remedy.

All right enough mushy stuff here's the stuff!
Jeff and I were on a weekend blast to Shanghai; this is where I realized I am truly a foreigner in China who knows nothing about this populous country. As Jeff finds solace in one line, he exasperatedly proclaims, "don't worry about it Greg - TIC - this is China Gregory". My first dose of alienation came on the Saturday when I was left alone to explore Shanghai. An amazing huge city of 18 million Chinese conundrums! It feels like any modern Western city but that sense of confident knowing will soon crumble with any time spent there.
It was a windy brisk spring dayin Shanghai, thermometer hovering around 12 degrees C.

I threw on a fleece, some long shorts and my Tevas (sandals): classic Vancouverite attire, however, Toto we're not in Vancouver anymore. After a leap of faith by grabbing a subway metro without the comfort of English directions I found my destination: People's Square (*we still are in communist China afterall). I took a pre-planned trek through energized dark haired crowds, a huge pedestrian mall that goes on for 10 blocks: character shops along the route, scenic architecture, and coupled with the awe of being in Shanghai - it was great! Of course a well placed Starbucks would mark my starting gate - where my grande, non-fat , no whip, half-sweet, 165 degree mocha order was met with a blank stare: I changed tack and simply pointed at a mocha and motioned 'big', which was met with a relieved smile and a barrister in motion.

You cannot be in this city and not be in awe of her, it is wonderful on so many levels: A torrid history of triads and pimps has given way to smart dressed business people, clean streets *relative to Asia*, restored old heritage buildings and a promise of future prosperity. Gaudy modern obelisk sculptures use marvellous early 20th century architecture as backdrop - where old meets new, in the most interesting way, a symbol of China herself.
Then it happened.
Slowly at first, and eventually building to a crescendo: a crescendo that would see me walled up in solitude for 24 hours of rehabilitation here at Jeff's Xiamen apartment. Little Chinese people streamed by me in droves, busy, but not so much not to give me attentive looks. At first I deduced it was my white face, round eyes, Caucasian looks. But there was an odd frequency and determination to these looks, especially because Shanghai has a lot of foreigners. Ruling out an open fly I noted that my face only held their glance for a second it was my legs and feet that caused smiles and wide-eyed gawks. I literally stopped and re-assessed my look; okay it wasn't Beijing standard but was it deserving of 'freaks are us' gawking? Apparently it was. What started out as mild amusement at their trepidation, graduated to avoidance, and progressed to my downright irritation. These provocations went from glances to stares: from old men who would stop in the middle of their brisk gait to ogle to middle aged Women excitedly tapping her girlfriend's shoulder to point and giggle to brash young teens that stood to get a better look as I strolled by... aaargh! And this went on all day, for 7 plus hours. Finally in a moment of exasperation I blurted out, "Yes they are sandals and shorts now get over it". He didn't, so it went and yes I'm an adult, in spite of actions.
Second day I was out with Jeff amongst the horde and yes, it was more of the same. I even left my Teva's at the hotel and went with just the shorts and runners. At one point, while putting on some new socks to deal with a burgeoning blister, Jeff observed, "you have an audience". Looking up I saw 8-10 locals gawking unabashedly while I sat in the corner of the storefront on this Shanhai busy street putting on my new socks. Ah Gad! Yesterday's compounding resentment showed itself by a quick jump to my feet and raising my hand in triumph, "I'm okay, I’m okay, shows over, thanks for coming", it wasn't over. Apparently I'm not meant for politics.
It was Monday now, back in Xiamen when the final straw collapsed; while buying some ice cream a kitten was playing with some locals about 10 ft from me. As I stood at the freezer deciphering Chinese scripted iced goodies I felt a tug on my Tevas. I looked down to see the kitten freshly bolted from his now laughing comrades attacking my sandals. A weary, "Et Tu Brutus", escaped my smiling lips.

So The Chinese staring and laughing at me Theories:

1. It's still winter, shorts and sandals are beach summer wear

2. Legs bare; is that hair?

3. Sandals = Peasant wear

4. I am a freak

5. From my days of travel my legs are skinny like Stu's.

No one could tell me for sure, even a cornered sales guy could only giggle and shakes his head. Any way, I've regrouped and refortified and I'm heading out in the light of day Xiamen. I am thankful I don't live in a country where intolerance is so steep that if you don't conform the resulting rudeness and mocking is considered fair behaviour. Man! You would think if there were one billion of you, you'd promote and welcome diversity to get a break from the 'blah'ness of the masses. Today I'm wearing shorts and Tevas facing the masses once again: for I know, "TIC – this is China” and China should know too, “TIG – This is Greg”